Caterham 170 experience

TL;DR : easy-peasy with the right tools Having replaced the mirrors with  SPA design ones , the originals were left laying on the desk downstairs. I thought it would be a good idea to remove them from their arms to save space and set them aside in a slim cardboard box. That was a mistake : once you remove the screw from the ball joint, there's not way to get it back, and all the hardware is left loose inside behind the glass. I knew from the first 2 minutes of this video of the build series by Kyle Townend that it could be a pain to deal with. He broke one and got the second out with a hot air gun.   I also read Lee's build blog where he states that Caterham advised him to submerge the mirrors in hot water to soften the glue. In both instances they had to get the mirrors on stalks attached to the windscreen stanchions, as the IVA does not allow the side screens for some reason (my guess is that the plastic windows are the actual concern as they can scratch easily). Anyway,...

TL;DR : Sub-optimal job from the factory With the car up on the lift at House of Speed the other day, it was apparent that the seats rails nuts and washers had seen better days. They were rusty more than scratched from contact with the road, but I couldn't leave them like that. While stainless steel replacement would look like the obvious choice, titanium is even a better option. CAUTION : Do not replace critical load bearing steel hardware with stainless steel or titanium and always stick the the prescribed alloy grade.  I reckon it's OK for the seats. Worst case they would become loose on the floor pan (or break) and you would still be attached to the car anyway... All we need are 4 (of each)  M8x20mm bolts, M8 nylstop nuts and M8x30mm plain washers per seat. Before placing my order, I had gotten the passenger seat out of the car for inspection, as I wanted to make sure I wouldn't need grinding down the titanium bolts flush with the nuts after fitting. Assuming they w...

TL;DR  : If it sounds too good to be true, then it probably is After the slight over-heating issues at the track day, I did eliminate the idea that it could come from the faulty oxygen sensor. Those were (are) totally independent problems. With the oxygen sensor replaced once again, I came to understand and suspect that my car does not like cold weather. So I took the opportunity of a nice Spring weather to do various tests early in the morning or late in the evening with a cold weather (~5°C), and compare what happens in the afternoon when it's over 15°C. On the first cold night, I got the coolant up to 110°C when briefly pushing hard. And got no issue in the next afternon. On the next morning, we went back to the Fagnes  with a mask covering the front grille. That somewhat improved things but the solution was not perfect either. It confirmed that the thermostat is "shocked" close as soon as it opens. The rest of the drive it must have remained closed as the cabin heate...

TL;DR : adhesive tape is all it takes As a follow-up to the new screws I did fit to the poppers that are on top of the boot cover, the ones on the sides needed replacing too. The concern with those poppers is that they have an orientation, with a slight bulge on the bottom that keeps the full hood secured once popped in place. Not wanting to mess that up, I took some time and finally found a silly solution to keep it all well aligned. Tape, it's just adhesive tape. So one at a time, I did lock the poppers with tape and replaced the rusty screws with stainless steel ones. Two per side : one behind the door, and the front-most one under the boot cover (the others are riveted) . I've spotted that the screws from the poppers in the cabin where the sidescreens latch have white oxidation; I'm ok with that.

TL;DR Wet wet wet   All pictures courtesy of GT Production  and Racing Pictures & Reports Although I had planned on going to the Belgians On Track event of April 3rd, I finally chose to go to the "Trackday & drift" week-end organized by Pierre Malderez / Malderez Racing instead. Same circuit, same week, same weather. The fact that I wouldn't need taking a day off was the decisive element. I had the car serviced and the thermostat replaced just in time for that week-end, and did replace the safety-wire on the differential that was leaking a bit again. I assume I didn't do it right after the Quaife had been fitted. Anyway, as I had my car raised at HoS to do the work, I was told not to use the NS2 tyres I had shred the threads off during the previous trackday in October. It would be too dangerous. So I got the Uniroyal RainExpert back on the rear, on the original Juno wheels. As they have no "rotation" to respect and only an "outside"/"...

TL;DR yet another saga, for some reason Super boring long story short, the reference you're looking for is 17670-81AB1. Good luck finding one. With no reply to the enquiry I sent Caterham through their online form, I had to find the Suzuki part number for a Suzuki Every DA17 on eBay. As far as I known, my dealer was not able to get any information from official channels either. We got the thermostat out of the car at House of Speed and were able to confirm that what we saw did match the pictures from the listings : the offset piston, the looks of the mechanism and even all the markings on the flange were identical. On the Caterham 170, the thermostat is not located in the housing that's on the cylinder head  (we checked, it's empty) , but in a remote housing near the oil filter, where the bottom hose of the radiator is attached  (gotcha) . 17670-81AB1-000 is a 82°C  thermostat with a 48mm diameter that, in Europe, is also used on the Suzuki V-Strom 800 mo...

TL;DR What a year 📄 First, I take the opportunity to shed some light on the Index page I wrote over the past week-ends. It’s available as the first item in the left-hand navigation bar of the blog. Content is sorted by topic, allowing to find what one could be looking for - the calendar thing is basically useless.  🎂 Two years then... It went both quickly and slowly, with the car stuck in the garage waiting for parts or paint for nearly five months. That made me miss the driest spring/summer season but I somehow managed to drive around 15 000 km despite that.  We did attend about 10 events and longer trips, from Mont Saint-Michel (shown above) to the Black Forest, club events, blats with Seven friends, a charity drive... and a first track day. Even if it sometimes looks and feels like a "Sisyphus' Caterham" story with the need for near constant upkeep, the worst issues so far have been a pair of 70€ oxygen sensors and a ~25€ thermostat that will be replaced wi...

TL;DR a lot of fun After two cold weeks of rain on frozen roads, any outing would mean soaking the Caterham in salt. We don't want any of that, so I jumped on the first chance of properly rinsed but dry roads one Wednesday evening after work to go for a quick 45-minutes drive. It was  just enough to keep the battery in good condition. Yes, I could have cut the master switch beforehand. I came back with really cold feet but had some good old fun. With the kids on vacation for 2 weeks, the original plan was to use it as my daily and take it to the office every day. Weather was so bad that they had to close the motorway near Francorchamps because of jackknifed tractor-trailers (on ice). Anyway, with the week-end came March showers. A bit of everything, with warmer rain. I don't know if I was craving driving so hard or what pushed me to see it that way, but it felt like a perfect day for one of my long drives around the Eifel and Rursee area. I left at around 9:15 and came ba...

TL;DR I'm really pissed this time Excuse my use of Greek letters, but What the Fυϲκ ! I just gave the car a quick power-wash after our Saturday blat to the Nürburging, and came back home to grazing sunlight that releaved strange brownish shadows behind the left-hand headlight. Looking closer, the bucket is rusty; all fυϲκed up with the paint cracked and lifting everywhere. With a car that's just 3 years old, "for the price" , this is just unacceptable. Options range from a £60 replacement that would most likely end up in the same state in a few years; to the 1000€ carbon fiber alternative from Wesmo. Or there's the obvious solution of spending hours cleaning, protecting and painting them to get them future-proof. My " perceived quality" (a strong focus at the top management at Caterham) has been never lower.   

TL;DR Pimpin' ain't easy Read part I   and part II for the full PIAA story. Even I think that a third post about those additional lights is a bit much. Yet again, the time spent 'researching' and fiddling with the adjustment make it worth my time writing it down. This whole blog could have been a collection of Post-It notes in Google Keep, all bullet points, sketches and figures. Anywho, as pleased as I was to transform my Seven into a light ball, it was too much and a plain nuisance to others if we're honest. Flooding the scenery up to the roof of houses with pissy yellow light wouldn't bring anything useful in actual fog either. The fact that the white drive beams were aiming too high was not as problematic, but the goal was for them to fill the black void left when the low beams turn off as the high beams are activated. I got a first check on the wall of the parking lot at work at the end of the day, with evidence recorded by the dashcam for later analy...

TL;DR The easy way, stealthy enough This is a follow-up from the previous post about adding PIAA LPW530 lights to my Caterham. Alignment is described at length here . With the car on hand, it took a whole 10 seconds and a wooden skewer to understand that the PIAAs wouldn't fit between the grille and the radiator. The space there is about 1 or 2 cm short. Change of plan then. I considered fitting a bracket down from the large nut where the headlight bowls and indicator pods are attached. It looked like a real chore of a project, and I didn't want to mess up with the headlights alignment. After much reflection, weighing various pros and cons, I went the easy way with a standard bracket made for that very purpose : a motorcycle clamp for 22-28mm tubes, made of cast aluminium. I was worried about adding unsuspended weight (~500g on each side) and about vibrations. I reckon that being about 1/3rd of the way out, it should be like 150g extra, which is close to what I've saved wi...

TL;DR Adding weight and complexity See them installed and in action here : part II    and finally part III about the alignment To quote Ben Jabituya in Short Circuit : "You know what many people are liking at night ? Headlights." Confession time. I'm one of those people he was talking about. Since the Vosges trip in August and the driving-mountain-roads-at-night-under-the-rain that came with it, I've been on the lookout for additional front lights for the 170. The issue comes from the void created near field when the main beams are switched on. With the original halogen headlights, you can hold the flasher button down to force both beams to illuminate at the same time. Replacement LED H4 bulbs didn't allow for that, but the illumination remained satisfactory. The proper LED headlights on the other hand alternate between two sharply defined beams that don't really crossover. The only Caterham with additional lights I know about is from Gilles in France. He l...